Italy's Most Powerful Red Wine - Amarone By Philip Stephenson-Oliver

Italy's Most Powerful Red Wine - Amarone By Philip Stephenson-Oliver

Amarone, or more formally Amarone della Valpolicella, stands as an enduring symbol of Italy's viticultural prowess, securing its place among the nation's most distinguished red wines. Renowned for its distinctive production method and remarkable alcohol levels, typically ranging between 15.5% and 16%, Amarone captivates connoisseurs worldwide with its unparalleled character. Despite occasional critiques questioning its elegance and finesse, Amarone maintains its prominence and popularity, firmly entrenched in the pantheon of Italy's iconic wines, a status unlikely to wane in the foreseeable future.

Crafted within the Valpolicella zone just west of Verona, Amarone draws its essence from a blend of indigenous red varieties, notably Corvina and Rondinella, with additional contributions from Corvinone, Molinara, and Oseleta. These same varietals form the backbone of Valpolicella, a quintessential Veronese red wine characterized by its medium body, moderate tannins, and a typical consumption window of five to seven years, often enjoyed even earlier.

Distinguishing Amarone from its Valpolicella counterpart lies in its specialized production process. Grapes destined for Amarone undergo an early harvest, followed by a unique pre-fermentation ritual: a meticulous drying period lasting three to four months on wooden racks or in carefully controlled environments. This transformative process, known as appassimento, is a rarity shared by only a select few wines globally.

During appassimento, the grapes, as they dry, shed 25%-30% of their natural water, transforming into raisin-like orbs of concentrated flavors. This phenomenon contributes to Amarone's elevated alcohol content and imparts a distinctive raisiny quality to both aroma and palate. The finest expressions, crafted by top producers in optimal growing seasons, gracefully mature for over a decade, with the pinnacle examples evolving beautifully over 30 to 40 years.

The origins of Amarone trace back a mere six decades, a departure from the ancient practice of crafting a sweet red, Recioto della Valpolicella, through natural drying of indigenous red varieties. The serendipitous emergence of Amarone occurred when, in the mid to late 1950s, winemakers inadvertently allowed grapes to dry for an extended period, resulting in a dry, not sweet, wine—a delightful accident that marked the inception of Amarone's production.

While winemaking techniques contribute to stylistic diversity, the nuances among Amarone examples also derive from the diverse landscapes of Valpolicella's vineyards. With approximately 15,000 acres of vines, 54% on hillsides, 22% at the foothills, and 24% on the valley floor, these diverse terroirs yield wines of varying intensity. Hillside plantings, in particular, often produce more full-bodied and intense Amarone examples, exemplifying the intricate interplay between vineyard location and the final expression of this illustrious wine.