The story of Sancerre -by Philip Stephenson-Oliver

The story of Sancerre -by Philip Stephenson-Oliver

The tale unfolds at the base of the Sancerre slopes in Saint Thibault, nestled along the enchanting banks of the River Loire. Once known as "Gortona," this Gallo-Roman port boasts an idyllic location at the convergence of the via Romana and the majestic river—a strategic departure point for transporting the exquisite wines crafted in this region. Pliny the Younger (61 AD – 144 AD) eloquently documents the existence of a grape variety, the "Bitrurious," undoubtedly pointing to the cultivation of vines by the indigenous Celtic tribe, the Bituriges, prior to the Roman conquest of Gaul.

The winemaking landscape experienced a transformative surge in 313 AD when the newly converted Emperor Constantine declared Christianity the official state religion across the Empire. This pivotal shift integrated wine as a significant facet of the newfound faith, capturing the hearts and palates of the now Catholic Gallo-Roman populace.

During the 11th and 12th centuries, the diligent Augustinian monks from the nearby Abbey of Saint Satur and the influential House of the Counts of Sancerre played pivotal roles in nurturing the flourishing vineyards. Jean of France, Duc of Berry, extolled the virtues of his wines, deeming them "the very finest in all the kingdom."

As an early precursor to contemporary AOC rules, Jean had a charter meticulously drafted, governing the vinification processes and harvest schedules. However, by the early 17th century, a surplus of wine in the Kingdom of France led Louis XIII to issue a decree prohibiting further vine plantations—an embargo lifted only with the onset of the French Revolution.

The mid-19th century posed daunting challenges, with disasters threatening to decimate the vineyards. The arrival of Oidium in the 1850s marked a dire moment, but vigilant efforts, including 15 years of intensive sulfur treatments, preserved the remaining vineyards. The 1860s brought forth another calamity—the arrival of Phylloxera, a minuscule aphid from America. Within a mere 30 years, France's vineyards faced near-total devastation, and Sancerre was not spared. Only from 1893 onward did the vineyards experience rejuvenation through the grafting of vines onto resilient American rootstocks.

Before the Phylloxera crisis, red grape varieties dominated the Sancerre vineyards. However, the post-crisis replanting predominantly featured the Sauvignon Blanc varietal, which received its AOC classification in 1936. The reds, attaining AOC status in 1959, constitute approximately 15% of the production, exclusively crafted from the noble Pinot Noir grape variety.