2010 Chablis, 1er Cru Côte de Lechet, Domaine Daniel Etienne Defaix, France

Premier Cru Côte de Léchet was planted by monks and was considered to be a Grand Cru in the middle ages. It is planted on a steep, southeast-facing slope that catches the morning sun. Wet limestone and lemon curd on the nose, with subtle flinty notes. The palate walks a tightrope of taut acidity, still lively and holding plenty of primary fruit. A marmalade character adds flesh to the finish, which is wonderfully long and infused with minerals. Drink 2020-2030

Our thoughts

Seeing a 2010 Chablis on the list, you could be forgiven for thinking this has been languishing on our shelves and somewhat forgotten. In fact, Daniel Etienne Defaix, one of the oldest domaines in Chablis, is an arch-traditionalist and thus keeps its wine in tank for 12 years on fine lees, with only occasional stirring, before release. In such an environment the wine doesn’t acrue an oxidative character, and is instead still fresh, but with creamy, rounded, caramel tones.